Hengdi Wang's designs are not merely clothing - constructed within Wang’s designs are stories, culture and philosophy. For SS26 Wang presented EXOGNESIS at London Fashion Week where Eastern mythology meets futurism, it is a collection that brings a new edge to fashion. The collection takes inspiration from Shan Hai Jing and oracle bone script (Jiaguwen) and reimagines these mythical creatures as extraterrestrial life. I had the opportunity to delve deeper into Wang’s creative process and aspirations as a designer. Initially, I was interested in what drew Wang to incorporate 3D-printed textiles.
‘As a designer, I often begin my process in programs such as CLO3D, where I can experiment with silhouettes and visualise how materials behave on the body’, Wang begins. ‘I start by letting my imagination expand [...] before refining and simplifying them to ensure they are both wearable and functional’. Wang expands on mediating between comfort and practicality with the materials and technology that can bring it to life. ‘The process is highly collaborative’, the designer continues, ‘I stay closely connected with my production team to ensure the designs are not only innovative but also technically and commercially viable; it is an ongoing dialogue between creativity and functionality’.
This thoughtful process is evident in Wang's designs. (1) One piece that stood out to me was a bronze armour reminiscent of a skeleton - the intricate green details gave it a futuristic touch, seamlessly blending history with modernity. ‘In Exogenesis, Chinese bronze sculpture and ancient armour were reimagined as futuristic exoskeletal forms’, Wang began to explain. ‘Skeletal and bionic structures were interwoven with Karl Blossfeldt’s botanical geometries and Ernst Haeckel's biological symmetries, while traditional embroidery and jacquard were juxtaposed with 3D-printed textiles and algorithmic patterns’. These techniques stand out in Wang's designs and demand your attention, the detailed bodice captures this fusion and unique approach to fashion. ‘These hybrid languages allow me to create a design system that bridges mythology, biology, and speculative technology’.
I then asked Wang on incorporating Eastern mythology into his designs: ‘Eastern mythology has always fascinated me because of its rich symbolic language’, the designer began, ‘The Shan Hai Jing, for instance, describes hybrid beasts like Taotie, whose scales, bones and textures inspire the materiality and surface treatments in my designs’. (2) This sentiment is clearly reflected in Wang's craft, his designs are rich with texture and elaborate silhouettes. By combining these elements with accents of purple and golden yellow in this particular piece, it brings about a sense of mysticism and the uncanny. ‘By reframing these mythical motifs, I explore how they can exist not just as historical relics but as living codes that connect humanity's past imagination to future possibilities’.
Needless to say, Wang's creations are highly innovative and avant-garde. The designs push the boundaries of fashion and bring a refreshing angle to the industry. (3) This collection features many biological and mechanical structures such as this piece that features an exoskeleton over a fitted dress, carefully balancing the fragility of a skeleton with mechanical strength. Curious, I asked if there was anything Wang wishes to experiment on in a future collection.
‘I am interested in exploring deeper integrations of 3D technology with textiles - creating materials that are not only digitally conceived but also functionally adaptive’ Wang explains. ‘I also want to experiment with combining crystals and advanced 3D processes, developing surfaces that refract light in entirely new ways’. Wang then expands on working with sustainable fabrics and synthesising it with digital craftsmanship and his desire to ‘push both aesthetics and responsibility forward’.
(4) Wang’s inclination to this material hybridity is already evident in this collection, particularly in this stunning white garment featuring bold, 3D textiles and a striking silhouette reminiscent of armour juxtaposing with a delicate skirt. When I asked about his ambition as a designer, Wang reiterated his wish to incorporate more technologies into his craft and expressed his desire to challenge traditional design. ‘While industries such as architecture and industrial design have embraced digital modeling and fabrication, fashion still has vast untapped potential’, Wang explains, ‘I want to help drive this transformation’. The designer then delves into the importance of cultural unity: ‘through my collections, I want to highlight the richness and beauty of my heritage in ways that resonate across cultures, building a bridge between East and West, between tradition and innovation’.
This cross-culture relationship forms an integral part of this collection. (5) Pieces such as this remarkable red garment echoes this sentiment by combining Eastern mythology with innovative technology, bringing about a futuristic flair to his designs that is appealing worldwide. Given the importance Wang places on this cultural integration and that he is based in London and Shanghai, I asked if there are any parts of each city’s fashion that he is fascinated by.
‘London offers a global stage where experimental ideas and cross-disciplinary innovation are celebrated’, Wang begins. "Its openness to avant-garde narratives and conceptual storytelling allows me to push boundaries and position my collection in a broader cultural dialogue’. He then explains how Shanghai keeps him close to his culture: ‘Shanghai, on the other hand, connects me deeply with my roots and a rapidly growing fashion market’. Wang mentions his gratitude for the support he received in Shanghai as he was building his brand. ‘For me, the two cities complement one another’ he expands. ‘Shanghai grounds me in my cultural heritage and connects me with China's dynamic creative community, while London gives me access to an international platform’.
It goes without saying that Wang’s designs ooze with heritage and meaning. It is not merely clothing, but rather ‘a vessel of memory, culture, and imagination’. Wang expresses that fashion ‘is a language that allows us to question who we are and to speculate on who we might become’. He elaborates on fashion’s ability to reconcile carrying the past with seeking the future. ‘It is both intimate and universal: it touches the body but resonates with society, philosophy and even the cosmos’ Wang explains. ‘To me, fashion is a living code - an ever-evolving narrative of identity, connection and transformation’.
Hengdi Wang’s craft is a testament to his one of a kind creative expression and commitment to pushing the borders of fashion. His creations drip with imagination and originality. As he continues to innovate and experiment, there is no doubt that he will transform the industry.
View the runway collection below:
